Seaham Hall

Call me pernickety if you will, but when I'm paying over £20 in service charge, I expect my waitress to actually deliver the cheese I order. Is this too much to ask or has diligence been flushed down the toilet along with manners, of which she too, was devoid. This was the cherry on the icing of what became a slightly soured cake over the course of two hours at the White Room in Seaham Hall. But before you cancel your reservation, let me add that carelessness was strictly limited to service, and only on this visit. On previous outings, service at the White Room has been spotless. On every occasion, food has been excellent. A terrine of chicken liver and foie gras with pea purée, apple and pea shoots was exquisite. Similarly, a main of belly pork was mouth watering with celeriac purée and roasted parsnip. Kenny Atkinson's cooking is faultless. It is just a shame that front of house let him down. When my cheese selection finally arrived, that too was exceptional, with over thirty varieties including a delightfully runny Époisses. I recommend a visit to the White Room as value for money is outstanding, not to mention the beautiful surroundings. You just better hope that your meal ends up on your plate and not on your lap.